Outer Race – The lube hole positions were changed along with the inside diameterģ. Inner Race – A pressed on flange was addedĢ. The change affected several aspects of the transmission:ġ. The longitudinal 700-R4 became an upgrade for many of the older, rear-wheel drive cars. A new model of forward clutch was being manufactured by May 1982, which replaced the roller clutch found on all THM 700r4 transmissions. A TV cable was used as a throttle position sensor for gear shifting. The model featured a lock-up torque convertor (view on Amazon) that allowed a connection which was direct and non-slip. The replacement 700r4 was a 4-speed automatic transmission was a bit longer in design, fully equipped with the overhead gear. The TH350 transmission was less durable and lacked an overdrive gear. The birth of the 700-R4 changed the market for automatic transmissions. The first gear ratio of 3.06 was lower than normal, and provided off road torque and offline acceleration: 700R4 Transmission Ratios The 30% overdrive is the source of popular fuel economy. The 700-R4 lower first gear ratio is a source of superior performance for low speed. The 700-R4 is compatible with V8 and AMC 16 engines: 700R4 Transmission SpecsĤ speed, overdrive automatic transmissionġ982 – 2012 GMC, Buick, Chevrolet applications The transmission weighs about 155 lbs with around 16 bolts and offered a standard V8 90° metric bolt pattern with 4.3 V6. The 700-R4 was made manufactured with cast aluminum and measures about 23.4 inches long. One last distinction, the electronic version of the 700-R4 will not have a worm drive. As mentioned, the three wheel drive model has shorter output shafts and adapter assemblies. Another primary distinction between the 700-R4 and the 4L60 is the rear output with four bolts. To identify the 700-R4, you should also look for the 16 bolts around the transfer case. The 4 wheel drive output shaft on the 700-R4 stuck out for about 3 inches, which is about 2 inches longer than the shaft in the TH350. The two wheel drive models will have a tail housing and the output shaft is longer. Use the first part of the double flare process to put a slight bump flare on the line ends when using rubber hose anywhere in the line.ĭoing a single flare puts the sharp metal edge of the hard line solidly against the rubber hose where it can eventually cut its way thru the rubber hose and cause it to fail.Īlso a bump flare is much easier to put the hose onto without damage as it has a smooth edge profile.Important: If you want to save $100s in servicing, diagnosis, and repair costs, improve your car's performance significantly and increase its value by 1.2x with little effort, download our Beginners Auto Maintenence & Repair Manual now. Oh yes.about flaring your hard lines slightly to keep rubber hose in place. (Not saying yours can't.just that you need to know for sure!) You may actually need to rethink your entire hard tube system.or go with a less eye appealing flexible hose that can accept a clamp joint. Your hose choice should be the deciding factor in how joints are made. Is it conformable to being forced over a bump flare on your metal lines and clamped or is it really meant to use some form of mechanical joint? My concern would be the liner material inside the SS hose your hoping to use. You can add a trans cooler with properly rated rubber hose as a joiner. I don't think there's too much pressure in the lines.
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